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DERMA MEDICAL INTERNATIONAL
BROW COLOURS | EYELINER COLOURS | LIP COLOURS | CAMOUFLAGE COLOURS
SOFTAP
EYELINER COLOURS | LIP COLOURS | CAMOUFLAGE INFORMATION
DERMA MEDICAL INTERNATIONAL PIGMENTS
BROW COLOURS
MEDIUM BLONDE - 13M
A light blonde colour for a skin type 1 or 2 client only. Heals a beautiful blonde on both cool and warms skin colours.
DARLING BLONDE / BROWN - 13D
The most versatile balanced light brown colour for skin type 2 or 3 clients. Heals a beautiful light blonde / brown on both cool and warm skin colours.
BROWN BEAUTY - 11BB
A perfectly balanced medium brown for skin types 2 - 4. Heals to a beautiful brown with not too much red or grey and can be used on both cool and warm skin colours.
PHILIPPA'S CHOCOLATE - 11P
Slightly darker than brown beauty. A medium warm brown, ideal for cool skin colours type 3 or 4.
RANCH MINK - 28
A cool brown ideal for warm skins with red undertones. A perfect taupe which will heal a bit grey on cool skins. Use on skin types 3 and 4
MOSS GREEN - 390
A cool, green undertone brown, ideal for red undertone skins (not ruddy skins). Slightly darker colour ideal on skin types 3 or 4. Can also be used for correction of red / orange brows.
DARK GOLDEN BROWN - 10A
The perfect dark brown. This colour in the bottle looks almost greemish, but under the skin, you will get a beautiful dark golden brown with no red in it.
DARK BROWN - 10
This dark brown has a red brown base. Used on a ruddy complexion it will heal mauve, so ideal on skin types 4 - 6 especially if client has an olive complexion.
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EYELINER COLOURS
BROWN BLACK - 9A
Used in place of black if you don't want the eyeliner to heal with any grayish / blue undertone.
BLACK - 9
An iron oxide black which will heal slight bluish in all skin types, but brilliant for all skin colours 1 - 6. If the skin is cool it will heal more bluish than if the skin is warm, but even on warm skin it will heal with a slightly blue undertone especially after time. To avoid this use brown/black or add a drop of Philippa's Pumpkin or Mango or red brown.
BLACK BEAUTY - 9B
An organic carbon based black which will definitely heal bluish on all skin colours and types, but the blackist of blacks and has the finest molecular structure which lasts longer in the skin. Be very careful of pigment migration, due to the fine molecular structure especially if you have a heavy hand.
DARK BLUE - 14D
A very dark blue, which heals beautifully in both cool and warm skin tones and ideal on skin types 1 - 4. Blue eyeliners are not ideal for brown eyed clients.
GREEN - 16
A dark green used for eyeliners.
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LIP COLOURS
REAL RED - 17R
A perfect true red with a slightly blue base making it a cool red. It is ideal for red, pink, brown or blue undertone lips healing with a pinkey / red undertone.
CRIMSON RED - 17A
A brownish warm burnt red. Ideal for brown, red or blue undertone lips. Heals a brownish red.
MANGO - 34
A red/orange used in very blue lips for a nice coral shade. Also used to correct purple or blue lips or to warm up black.
RED BROWN - 12
A beautiful red brown for red or brown lips, be careful in blue lips as can heal with a purple hue. Add Philippa's pumpkin or mango to prevent any blue undertones. Can be used to warm up brow shades like ranch mink or moss green.
RUBY RED - 17B
A bright blue based pink cool red which contains titanium dioxide. Ideal for red, blue or pink undertone lips. Heals to a beautiful coral pink.
MAUVE - 41K
A very versatile lip colour for all lip colours. It heals to a pinkish brown shade, but is quite light. Ideal for that client who want a very subtle lip liner which just enhances the natural shape of her mouth.
NATURAL LIP - 17N
The perfect natural lip shade. It is half yellow based and half blue based. In most cases whatever lip this shade is put in, it will turn the client's natural base shade only deeper and more defined. This colour can be used as either warm or cool, however if used in a very blue lip you might want to add a drop of Mango.
MOCHA - 39
The safest brownish shade for lips without running the risk of getting chocolate brown or purple / grey lips. A perfect warm brown, which give excellent definition for brown undertone lips.
APICOT - 34A
A warm brown orange. Ideal for all lip shades. Heals to terracotta shade.
STRAWBERRY JAZZ - 17J
A warm coral pink. Ideal for all lip shades. Heals to pinky coral shade.
RASBERRY CREAM - 22
A cool medium pink shade, not too blue based. Works on all lip shades even blue lips and heals to a medium pink shade.
ROSE RED - 17S
A medium soft red / pink shade with a blue base. Heals well on lips shades. Heals to a reddy / pink shade.
ANTI-GREY - 18B
A corrector colour to remove grey / blue undertones. Can be added to any colour to prevent graying.
OCHROS - 18A
A corrector colour to remove purple / violet undertones.
ANTI ORANGE / RED - 18C
A corrector colour to remove orange / red undertones.
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CAMOUFLAGE COLORS
Camo1, 2, 3 and 4, light beige, true beige and warm beige are all wonderful colours to produce the best camouflage for scars and to create wonderful areolas.
SOFTAP
Colours you can trust in a glycerine base, no guessing, no fear of strange undertones, all pre-blended so no mixing, plus a guarantee of a perfect healed colour.
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EYELINER COLOURS
A. Blue Lagoon
- Many technicians open the jar and think that this color is black. I assure you, it is not. This will heal up as a beautiful midnight, navy blue.
- This is great for blue eyes.
- Again, I have done a two tones effect where I enhance the lashes with Mahogany and do a smudgy effect with Blue Lagoon. It looks so fabulous.
B. Black Orchid
- This is definitely for the client who always wears jet black eyeliner. This is a beautiful black and very popular.
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LIP COLOURS
The lip colors are divided into 4 sections for choosing: 1) Mauve/Pinks, 2) Brown/ Pinks, 3)Natural Pinks, and 4) Orange/ Pinks. Use the Orange-Aid to prime a coat on the lip first to help prevent the blue undertone from coming through, then layer the desired color over it.
Mauve/Pinks
A. Sweet 16
- The perfect color for the client who wants just a little boost of mauve/pink in her lip.
- Also this is one of the 6 special effect extenders that can match someone's lip either to make the lip look slightly larger or to define the edges.
B. Innocence
- This is a very popular color for the client who has pale lips and wants to enhance the shade by 2 or 3 shades.
- Also this is one of the 6 special effect extenders that can match someone's lip either to make the lip look slightly larger or to define the edges.
C. Cupid's Kiss
- This is the mauvest of the mauve /pink tones. It presents a lovely earthy look.
- Remember to add Mango Obsession to any of the mauve/pinks if there is a strong presence of blue undertone in the natural lip.
- Again, this is one of the 6 special effect extenders that can match someone's lip either to make the lip look slightly larger or to define the edges.
Brown/ Pinks
A. Pastel Rose
- The colors in this category are for those who do not wear bright lip colors, but instead are attracted to the earthier brown toned colors.
- This color is the lightest of the brown/pinks.
- This color may appear slightly too orange, but do let that fool you. This color usually heals up to a light brick color -lovely.
B. Secret Passion
- This heals up browner than it looks. It presents a beautiful earthy look without too much pink.
C. Jamaican Rum
- This is one of my favorite colors. I use it a lot for lip extensions and defining the edges of someone's lip.
- Think about neutralizing it with a bit of the Mango Obsession though if you are going to do a full lip color with it because of those blue undertones in the natural lip and the slight mauviness in the Jamaican Rum.
D. Havana Girl
- This is also a very popular color. This is the brownest of all the brown/pinks and really looks fabulous.
- You may add some Caramel to it if the client desires it a little browner.
- Do not, I repeat, do not use a straight brown on lips no matter how much a client insists on it. The only exceptions are on African American women who already have very dark lips and wish a little more definition.
Natural Pinks
A. Victorian Rose
- This color will give you the color of a baby's lips
B. Tickle Me Pink
- For a medium pink tone in the lip
- Use to brighten up any other lip color
C. Valentine
- The reddest of the lip colors
- This will yield a medium or brighter pink in the lip
- Remember that you can layer lip colors one on top of the other. For example a client may first come in and request a very natural color. You may choose, for example sweet 16. Then 3 weeks later, she may say "Now I want it deeper". So you use Cupid's Kiss. Three weeks later she calls and says "No, now I really wanted it brighter". So then you use Valentine. Then she's happy. The results are stunning. If you want to see such an example, see the model on the lip poster who is the third one down from the top. All three of those colors were used on her at separate appointments. The layering of these colors can be quite beautiful.
Orange/Pinks
A. Mango Obsession
- This is an orange pink color and is lovely by itself on warmer complexioned, pale lipped clients.
- It is also the color to blend into your other lip colors to help neutralize out strong blue undertones in someone's lip.
B. Peaches N' Cream
- This color will usually heal up like a beautiful earthy brick red.
- This can also be added to Lemon-Aid to implant into a deep blue gray brow
C. Blushed Petals
- This is a great color for someone who wants a simple neutral color.
- This will heal up like a beautiful pink/orange. The more cool tone that exists in the lip, the end result will lean toward the pinker side. The paler or whiter the lip, the result will be a pinkish tone with a slight hint of orange. Knowing that lips require several applications, some technicians use this color as a base for the first application in order to help indicate what undertones are present in the lip.
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CAMOUFLAGE INFORMATION
Beautiful camouflage work is the result of subtleties and implantation that is applied like a spray effect, not in a solid mass. These flesh tones are designed to match someone's skin tone without having to blend anything. There may be exceptions , however, because there are some many tones of skin out there. Anyone who is serious about camouflage work needs to have all of these colors in their palette because using the right color is critical for a successful treatment. This is how you will choose your color. First, smear one of the colors on the skin, then take a dry q-tip and blend it into the skin as though you were trying to rub it off. The right color will be the one that blends in or disappears into the skin.
There are so many different kinds of scar tissue that is it difficult to tell how much color will be absorbed by the scar. A small patch test is a must. Wait 11-14 days before the actual application is done so that you can see how the color will look in the scar. Hyperpigmented scars (darker than the surrounding skin) are much more difficult to camouflage if not impossible to improve. The most successful kind of scars to improve upon are hypo-pigmented scars (lighter in color than the surrounding skin).
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